We went for our usual breakfast and decided we couldn't possibly leave Krabi without having seen Railay (also spelt as Rai Leh). What scant research we performed was not particularly encouraging, painting the place as nothing more than a bunch of cliffs only suited for one purpose.
DL and I, a lecturer and a bean counter. Not exactly rock climbing material.
With LC not feeling too outdoor-sy, DL and I walked down the main street in Ao Nang and got two return ferry tickets (THB200 per person) from the booth by the sea. This turned out to be a mistake, as we shall see later.
Peach Jinda 3, our long tail boat from the island hop the day before had been a dream. So this boat, unimaginatively named N53, was a shock to me. The wood was rotting, and the boat was full of dirty water, with bits of trash floating about. The engine was deafening and the boat sped along rockily. I said a little prayer along the way.
Railay is only a 15 minute ride away. The peninsula is actually attached to Krabi mainland, but due to the high limestone cliffs and untamed forests in between, is only accessible via boat.
Upon arrival to West Railay Beach, DL and I were floored. I had initially thought it would be similar to Hong Island, but no, it was beautiful! Clean sand, clear waters, limestone cliffs rising above the sea... and best of all, cafes along the beach.
Our boatman, instructed us to wait at "Puh-Naang-Kip" at 1pm. We were a little confused, but assumed the place was too small to actually get lost. So DL and I confidently set off, wandering through the Guest Only walkway of Railay Village Resort.
It was gorgeous and so perfect, I could completely visualise my honeymoon with X there. Green mountains overlooked the swimming pool. The garden was beautifully landscaped and well tended to. The walkway itself was smoothly pebbled. The chalets we walked past looked cosy and romance-conducive.
Limestone cliffs overlooking the Railay Village Resort pool
We wandered to the end of it and came to East Railay Beach. It's not so much a beach, but a young mangrove swamp. I use the term swamp loosely here as it's not boggy at all. The water is clear and during high tide, fish fry swim about your ankles. The mangrove trees grow in twos and threes, neatly spaced out.
This is the "service entrance" to the island. Tanned Thai men ferry foodstuff and other supplies to the resorts and restaurants with their long tail boats. Dodging wheelbarrows and carts, DL and I pottered about admiring the view.
The most gorgeous service entrance ever
When asked on the whereabouts of "Puh-Naang-Kip", the men pointed South. Okay, DL and I decided, we'd while away the next two hours or so at one of the beachfront cafes at East Railay Beach, then make our way to this "Puh-Naang-Kip" place to meet our boatman.
I got a Diet Coke and DL, a mixed fruit shake. We just laid back, watching the lithe, young farangs set up their beachtowels on the sand and observed how it seemed that all the fatties were back in Ao Nang.
When 12.45pm came, we paid the bill and hurried towards our destined meeting place. We soon found out that "Puh-Naang-Kip" was actually a 20 minute hike away from East Railay Beach. We hurried along and on the way, stopped briefly to admire the infamous Diamond Caves.
It turned out that "Puh-Naang-Kip" was butchered English/ Thai for Phra Nang Beach. And it was magnificent. We were bowled over. Stalagtites attached to the limestone caves hung over the azure waters. People frolicked about, some topless. The sand was fine and powdery white. We were a little disappointed how we'd wasted so much time at the cafe, rather than exploring this gem of a beach.
Me: Isn't it beautiful?
Mum: What if those things fall down? Won't the people die?
Me: ...
As it turned out, we had lots of time after all. Our boatman explained to us that he needed to fill his quota of eight passengers before he could leave the island. I was furious. How can anyone leave out this sort of information?
His companion jeered in Engrish, "You want go now, two pee-par, you pay 500 baht."
It wasn't the money that bothered me. It was how they could blatantly just cheat you. Our boatman and us had a date: 1pm. If he would only set off later, he could have mentioned it so we could do a bit more sightseeing. It was another shock - this is my first Thai trip on which I've been cheated. It's also worth noting that the Krabi folk are noticeably and consistently less friendly than your average Bangkok/ Phuket/ Chiang Mai vendor.
My mood completely ruined, we sat there stonily. Perhaps feeling a nibble of contrition, our boatman offered us to leave, "guaranteed", at 2.30pm. DL and I were too sunburnt to enjoy anymore of the beach, so we hid in the shade and just sat for about half an hour helplessly.
I got up and checked out other boats, asking if anyone could take us back, whatever the cost. Unfortunately, the rest of them were chartered. DL noticed my glumness and decided we should have lunch at The Most Gorgeous Cafe In The Whole World.
TMGCITWW (so christened because I failed to take down the name) is elevated on a rock platform and partially located within a limestone cave. The tables are set facing the sea diagonally, and shaded by the proliferation of trees as well as the cave itself. Almost each table has only two chairs, so that both diners may enjoy the view of the ocean.
Real linen in a rustic setting
The menu prices were equally breathtaking. In an attempt to cheer me up (and to use up all his baht), DL offered to pay for lunch. I got Roast Chicken Sandwich (THB290) and he got Fried Rice (THB300). The food took a little while to prepare, but the service was impeccable.
Our food was good, though not amazing. I guess we were paying for the luxury of (almost) fine dining in a beautiful natural setting. At 2.30pm, our boatman then appeared and tried to hurry us. DL assured him we would take away the food/ eat quickly. However, we were informed that the restaurant did not carry take away containers and hence decided to enjoy our meal slowly.
The bill came up to THB820, inclusive of drinks and VAT (7%). Miraculously, our boatman was still there at 3pm. We hurried onto the boat, nodding apologetically to the other passengers.
As LC was nowhere in sight, DL and I had quick showers and went off to Stall 9, as aggressively recommended by its lady owner. I must admit, I was a little hesitant seeing how it was extremely exposed and little more than a tin roof over several thin matresses.
The staff, genuinely friendly and welcoming, soon made us feel home. DL and I chose Aloe Vera (THB200) and Back, Neck and Shoulders (THB300) massages respectively. We both agreed they were very good. My masseuse helpfully rubbed some extra aloe vera cubes over my sunburnt shoulders to soothe the burning skin. Later, I sat down for a complimentary pedicure, where the young man also helpfully removed my ingrown toe nails.
I've been back 5 days and it hasn't even chipped
Having read the note we left her in hotel room, LC came over and joined us. We then got back to shower before heading off for dinner.
We casually chose Aning Restaurant, on the basis of how "airy" it looked. The Stir Fried Beef with Basil (miniscule portion), Red Curry (waaaay too much coconut milk) and Seafood Tom Yam (what seafood? We only found prawn heads) turned out to be real duds. We paid the THB550 and returned home.
Day 4
We got up at 6am to watch the sunrise only to realise that our beach faced the West, and ended up taking an hour long stroll on the beach. Did our usual breakfast routine, packed up and got on our hired taxi (THB500) to the airport.
KBV turned out to have a pretty decent, albeit grotty restaurant on the fourth level. There's even internet access at THB50 per half hour. We chilled there for the next hour and half. The Rice with Pork, Egg and Spicy Stir Fried French Beans that DL and LC had was pretty decent (THB120 per person). My Mixed Fruit Shake (THB60) was rendered disgusting with too much overripened cantaloupe. The Chicken Fried Rice (THB100) was excellent though, surprisingly.
At about 12.20pm, we boarded AK863 to return back to reality.
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