Melbourne - Canberra - Sydney - Gold Coast

I woke up earlier than I would have liked, aided by KG's 7.00am phone call. Upon debating the pros and cons of driving through Melbourne during peak hour traffic, we decided upon bypassing the CBD via Barkers Rd and Melbourne University. Sydney Rd is one very, very, very long, seemingly unending stretch I never had the chance to visit properly.

On Burke Rd bidding farewell to the lovely inner east - the best place to be young, free and single.

What names! I had to park by the emergency stopping lane to snap this one.

I'm not one for driving long distances. Especially not alone (i.e. this is the first time I've ever done this much driving). I managed the first 5 hours or so fine; the iPod selections were generally suitably upbeat and boppy. But by 2pm or so, I was getting morose and edgy and had chowed down 4 Cadbury Mixed Berry bars (rice crispies with berries coated with chocolate, yum) already. KG sent me a text every couple of hours to ensure I hadn't veered off the road in boredom. My dexterity improved by the minute and soon I was opening food packets and water bottles and changing the iPod selections whilst whizzing down the motorway at 100kmph (admittedly I have the benefit of cruise control).

I stopped by Wangaratta for fuel but failed to find any food. Albury was the next major town but I lacked time. Holbrook was remarkably pretty, with its submarine-themed signposts. Gundagai was lovely; I wish I had more time.

About 10km past Gundagai is the Dog on the Tuckerbox. KG's insistence that I stop by this little piece of Australian history bordered on nagging, so I obliged with a quick pit stop.

By the time I neared Canberra (little less known fact: ACT is not a state, nevermind the misleading online form options; I live with THE walking encyclopedia), the winter sun was setting rapidly. The Barton Highway lacks street lighting and I was one of the few cars driving into the territory; everyone else was leaving, high beams on. I squinted and swore furiously the whole way, the nervous sweat from my palms forming rivulets on the steering wheel.

I arrived at BR's house without too much trouble, considering how I made it on a blurry phone camera photo of Salman Rushdie-esque Google map instructions. Note to others: Suburban streets in Canberra are much narrower than those of Victoria and Queensland, with very, very dim streetlights.

BR's hungover expression remarkably resembles the sculpture

We headed to the town centre for dinner. We settled for a vegetarian Vietnamese restaurant, whose laksa and pho were surprisingly delicious. The Italian restaurant (the fancy one in the corner - I forget the name) was completely packed, so we took the tiramisu home.

KG had warned me repeatedly about the weather, so I left my heaviest winter clothing on top of the pile (my car was almost packed to the brim). "It's -0.1C now", he informed me. I pooh-poohed this notion, and headed outdoors the next early morning to repack my car. Whilst I felt completely fine, I began to notice how my fingers and ears had started to hurt. My digits were red and swollen. I hurried with my task before developing frostbite.

Frost on my sunroof

BR kindly awoke at 7am on a Saturday morning to make me a carrot and pear juice and to accompany me up Mt Ainslie (arid, very natural bushland setting). This is a popular spot for the health conscious locals, who bounded past us nary a sweat in shorts, no less.

If you squint really hard, you'll see the kangaroo. He actually posed long enough for me to get 2 semi-decent shots (I was 5 metres away and using a lousy phone camera)

A panoramic view of the city. Pressed for time, I didn't manage to see the city, but received a fairly thorough explanation of the notable buildings from BR.

I hurried off and stopped at the nearest fuel station outside the territory. My stick indicated the oil levels were dangerously low. I, who up until now, still struggle with caps (jar, childproof), relied on the kindness of a stranger to do the honours, before speeding all the way past Goulburn to the Sydney Airport, with leftover Kettle chips as breakfast.

KG's flight arrived at 10.19am. I was 2.5 hours late (though this was anticipated). His ruddy smile and grey curls were a sight for sore eyes.


He took over the driving, seeing how it was impossible to fit him into the passenger seat with all my stuff. We stopped by the Sydney Exhibition & Convention Centre to have a look at the MindBodySpirit exhibition for a bit before driving across the harbour bridge to McMann's Point for lunch.

We had some excellent food at the Italian restaurant (I really need to start remembering some names - it's the one with loads of people dining alfresco in the middle of the strip anyway).

The loveliest picture I probably have of Sydney, including both iconic structures, taken from McMann's Point.

After a whirlwind tour of the north shore, we headed to the Hotel Ibis on Pennant Hills Rd for the night. It's very minimalistic and functional; we especially liked the space efficient bathroom.

The sunrise from our room window. The man handling the check in was extremely candid when requested for a room with a view. "What view?"

We awoke early the next day and set off at first light. The fuel stop at Heatherbrae (just before Raymond Terrace) had surprisingly excellent food; try sharing the chicken sandwich - portions are enormous.

I'd hoped we could do lunch at the organic shop in Kempsey, but it was closed. We headed to the nearby Macksville instead, for some vaguely edible meat-and-bread combinations.

The view from our picnic table. Thankfully the seagulls left us alone this time.

The long stretch after was pretty monotonous. Both of us were fairly knackered and required a pit stop or two (never underestimate your exhaustion). Dinner was Hungry Jacks in Ballina before we drove on and finally arrived home, sweet home.

Settling in

There's a whole suburb named Tanah Merah in between the Gold Coast and Brisbane stretch. I'd always been curious. Apparently, there's a sizeable Malaysian population around.

Redundancy. (Credit to KG for doing a U turn and pausing the 10 seconds required for me to fumble with the phone camera, click and snap at a roundabout no less and miraculously, not getting honked at)

(Dunny is Aussie slang for toilet. In case that wasn't clear enough)

You can't tell, but the out of focus street sign behind actually says Papaya St. On a somewhat related note, mangosteens are going for $1.49 here. EACH.

These seemingly harmless feathered friends here are plovers, known to draw blood if feeling threatened. They nest on the ground too, so mind your steps.

Manly, a pretty suburb on the south eastern side of Brisbane. Try The Pelican's Nest for decent seafood and pleasant ambience.

Dessert for tonight. Mascaporne cheese is glorious stuff. I got the recipe from here. KG better be hungry.

Potatoes in lieu of silicon

Happiness is watching the orange glow of the sunset fade across the Nerang river, while being held in the cool breeze. And then running screaming down the street because your lover is trying to put a potato down your shirt while a group of strangers try to make sense of the scene. And then making bangers and mash (boil diced and peeled potatoes 'til soft then mash with milk, butter, salt and pepper) together before settling in for a quiet evening at home.

Riza says:
i have to go make dinner

janbanks.blogspot.com says:
cook away, my furry friend!

Riza says:
haha so who does the cooking over there?

janbanks.blogspot.com says:
me
lol
tho yest KG helped

Riza says:
lol what do u cook anyway?

janbanks.blogspot.com says:
we needed to make mashed potatoes
n didnt have any
so we went out to get 2

Riza says:
2 potatoes? lol

janbanks.blogspot.com says:
then i put them in his chest pockets
so they looked like boobs
lolololol
everyone kept staring

Riza says:
lol well jan, i see you havent changed

Things I will miss about Melbourne

So endeth my three month stint in the Garden City. Victoria was lovely - in many ways, my life there reminded me of the good times in KL. My social life was hectic, I worked in a corporate environment and there were lovely cafes around every corner. Not to mention the enormous Malaysian population.

So why did I leave? I could list inane things like, the weather, the horrendous dodge 'em traffic, the madding crowds, but really, I'm leaving for love. SO, my favourite sister-in-law (even if you aren't the only one, you'd still be my favourite) put it succinctly: You might be in Melbourne, but your heart was always in Gold Coast.

Still, much as I love KG (please take note of what I'm giving up for you), the sunny blue skies and the ability to flaunt my waistline in dresses (I am constantly in jeans here) all year round (I used to love outerwear but am sick, sick, sick of it now), I know I'll miss...

... the cafes in completely random places: Dead Man Espresso (South Melbourne), Babble (off Chapel St), Journal (Flinders Ln), 1000 Pound Bend (Little Lonsdale St), Giraffe Cafe (also Little Lonsdale St).

... cheap food: Japanese at Don Don and Hanaichi ($6.50-7), pizza at Brunswick and QVM ($2-2.50 per slice), Sushi at Lonsdale St ($2 per roll) and general $10 meals everywhere else.

... the parks/ green: Fitzroy Gardens, the National Parks along the Great Ocean Road and all the little reserves all over the inner eastern suburbs and Yarra Valley, of course.

... cheap and chic: Brunswick St and Fitzroy St are great for warehouse/ outlet sales (see Missy Confidential for tips), Camberwell Sunday Markets for recycled designer stuff, DFO South Wharf for the Gap and Forever New outlets and apparently, the op shops in St Kilda's (never got the chance, sadly).

... Christian support: I attended the Planet Shakers church once and honestly, if you're new to the city, register yourself there - they have random church members call you now and then to make sure you're okay. And of course, SL and co, thank you so much for your prayers!

... friends: I've met many, many people here - some nice, most unmemorable, some downright insane. And also turned many acquaintances into friends. To the lovely people who put up with my lovesick whinging and craziness, I ♥ you all and promise to return your hospitality when you pop over to my turf next time.

... people: For most part, Melburnians are extremely friendly and easygoing. Although I did face my first racial epithets ever here, I've also had many long, in depth conversations with random strangers.

... tree-lined streets: Autumn here is amazing and I'm so glad I got the chance to experience it.

Okay, I'd better stop here or I'll start with a litany of regrets next.

Stopping to smell the roses

BE and I met in 2007 through Facebook (I poked him because he's cute and I thought we shared the same surname). From the start, I liked his gung ho-ness, his sincerity and above all, how he always picked up the tab is always such a thoughtful friend.

And here's another display of his thoughtfulness, after a profound conversation we had. Whilst I am not the sole muse for his post, I am meandering through life a little (albeit quite contentedly so). This attitude isn't exactly appreciated by some Malaysian friends and family; I'm certainly relieved that my sabbatical is far away from the naysayers.

When I worked in KL, I'd faced a lot of criticism because I did things differently (ie. efficiently) from everyone else. And you know what? Those same people are slogging until 8pm-midnight everyday, shopping, partying and boozing away.

A party-pooper and teetotaller, I believe that life holds much more than all that certainty. I appreciate the randomness each day brings and like myself much better for it too. Whilst my mother despairs over my indecision, I'm relieved that I'm in a position to be indecisive.

So here's to Godsent friends who write you blog posts, post you stuff to cheer you up, buy you plants, pray for you, help you fix flat tyres, help you move house and overall, are there when you need them.

Days 3 and 4: The Great Ocean Roadtrip

We spent most of the late morning wandering about the 12 Apostles Marine National Park, which is really worth the ramble. Note: Eat breakfast if you're planning to do this - it'll take a good hour and the nearest shops will be a 15 minute drive away in Port Campbell.

Limestone stalactites

A reasonably decent panoramic effort near the Sherbury (?) Estuary

X and I kept look out for each other as we answered our respective calls of nature

The Blow Hole

Thunder Cave, which I believe leads to the Blow Hole

Starving by now, we drove towards Port Campbell and wound up at the charming Room 6 for brunch. I had the Big Vegetarian Breakfast (mushrooms, spinach, hashbrown, toasted turkish bread, scrambled eggs and a yummy unidentifiable relish) and X had the Big Breakfast (bacon, eggs and the lot). Mine was gorgeous. Highly recommended, though be prepared for a couple of hungry sparrows.

We decided to skip Warrnambool in lieu of a more leisurely drive, though in hindsight, including it would have still allowed for a decent pace. The journey inland from Port Campbell to Colac (past Timboon, Camperdown and Cobden) was lovely. We drove through the lush Cape Otway National Park. It was amazing how beautiful and thick the vegetation was, and in certain areas, how tropical. We were told that the year had brought much needed rain and how some years back, most of the land had been parched and brown.

The breathtaking view from Mt Leura, which is really a volcano in the volcano of Leura Maar.

X's brother who lives in Geelong suggested we do lunch at Colac. Unfortunately, we were both ridiculously stuffed from the brunch earlier. We did stop at the Otway Estate Winery (12 km off the main road) nonetheless. The restaurant there has won some kind of Food Award for 2008 - 2010 and the dishes did smell divine. X and I plopped ourselves on the couches for some dessert and drinks. This is where the Best Iced Chocolate exists. The milk was thick and the ice cream was probably homemade, with a slightly gritty texture and dark cream colour. The chocolate syrup lacked the sweetness of most commercial brands. It was beautiful.

We lazed around, reading magazines for a bit before resuming our journey. The initial plan had been to stay the night in Colac, but the caravan parks had looked extremely uninviting (the one near the lake is pretty, but lacked linen).

We wound up in Winchelsea, which is about 20 minutes from Geelong. The Winchview Cottages are run by the hospitable Graham and June Rowe. It was all incredibly charming and I had the best night's sleep there, with the electric blanket turned up to the maximum temperature.

The cottage is actually a mobile house (yes, they actually cart houses off to be replanted elsewhere in this country). I believe this one was from Geelong.

And finally, this one for the American and Israeli friends. At least us bloody Asian drivers get this one right (most of the time).

Days 1 and 2: The Great Ocean Roadtrip

X and I had planned to spend his birthday together. Now virtually everyone I've mentioned this to asks, Didn't you guys break up? Well, yeah. We did. And we remain broken up. But just because you break up with someone (especially when it was amicable), it shouldn't mean you should wipe them out completely. X was a massive part of my young adulthood and still remains, a good friend. I'm not going to pretend he wasn't a huge part of the reason I moved to this lovely country and he didn't affect my life very fundamentally.

Jan: ...and I'll pick you up, okay?

X: Wash the car first.

Jan: WTF

X: I don't want to picked up by a dirty car.

Jan: SO TAKE THE BUS.

So goes how I ended up doing my first solo carwash. All sorts of nervewracking scenarios played in my mind - what if those giant brushes broke through my windscreen? What if I drowned in soapy water? What if I was late for my medical appointment?

After checking into Hotel Discovery (functional, friendly staff, reasonable parking, gorgeous bedding though the toilet was miles away), we spent a large part of the day wandering around the State Library. I felt vaguely Harry Potter-ish, what with my heavy MNG wintercoat and glasses.



X's lovely niece recommended the Dining Room at the Waterside Hotel. I managed to convince his sister to make a 4 hour roundtrip from Boolarra too. It all turned out beautifully in spite of the pouring rain. The food was divine - try the Grilled Saganaki. I had the Calamari and Chorizo Salad, which was lovely, and would have been lovelier had I actually liked chorizo.

Torquay is lovely. Reminds me of the northern NSW towns, only heaps colder. Bells Beach had such lovely waves - long, unbroken and non-dumpy. I am in awe of how anyone can possibly surf in such freezing conditions.

The entire drive was so scenic.

Lorne reminded me of Kiama, albeit smaller. Very charming and as with all Aussie tourist towns, overpriced. The friendly manager of the local post office cheerfully told of a 3 week period earlier during which he was able to view whales mating through the door. "What other kind of indoor job can you expect to see that?"

Apollo Bay. X got some smoked trout, which became fodder for a load of jokes (did you know that smacking someone around with a frozen trout is an actual offence in UK?). I got some barramundi and chips whilst the seagulls circled us at the park.

The 12 Apostles was breathtaking.

Only the gloomy weather marred the magnificent vision.

There was a really noticeable amount of Indian visitors there (like 40%). At first I thought it might be due to the nearby university town of Warrnambool, but was told those institutions largely cater for locals. Is anyone able to provide an explanation? I thought it might be a sacred site or something, but then it's the 12 Apostles, you know?

Fat ass bee on the lavender patch outside our motel.

We stayed at the 12 Apostles Motel and Country Retreat. It's hosted on 8 acres of former dairy farmland and a phone call from KG at night had me standing outside, gazing up at the star scattered night sky, the Milky Way subtly visible.